IM Men Fall 2026 Menswear Collection

The gothic vaulted cloisters of Collège des Bernardins lent this show an almost cultish aspect. The elemental riffs on masculine elegance ensured it was a cult you wanted to be brainwashed by. Entitled “Formless Form,” this strong IM Men collection stayed true to the legacy of the late Issey Miyake while making a convincing case for his canon’s ongoing place in contemporary menswear.

The run of show was structured through colorways intended to mark a progression from dawn until dusk. Opening looks in pre-daybreak black included a girdled jumpsuit whose shoulders were cinched—like many of the fastenings in this collection—by elasticated crocodile clips. Black bruised slowly into gray via oversized, draped, deconstructed tailoring, finished with ankle-length ties and sneakers featuring oversized accordion-pleated lace flaps. Gradual shifts into blue and green followed, rendered in hand-dyed fabrics used for more romantically deformalized formalwear, including a tailored jacket worn over tailored dungarees.

In common with several designers this season, the IM team focused on reworking the architecture of outerwear at the shoulder. Here, the trench was remixed by blending storm flaps into the body of the garment and amplifying volume. There were striking all-white looks in vertically paneled quilting stuffed with recycled polyester that suggested echoes of Japanese costume. Two shawl-collared padded coats, one beige and one black, looked cosy yet faintly ominous.

Elsewhere, suits and shorts in roughly tufted wool carried a strange, almost stained inconsistency to their oaty palette.

Irregularly checked kasuri weaves in black and blue were used to construct draped, layered looks that appeared to heap fabric onto the body. While the shownotes emphasized their multi-configurational potential, the effect was less functional than evocative, lending the garments a wandering, nomadic air. A brown raglan-sleeved coat with a textured finish and pronounced notch collar offered a simpler, wholly loveable counterpoint, also shown in sky blue and night black.

Jackets and trousers were built from bolts of fabric with brand-stamped selvedge edges draped from their outermost seams. Other looks were assembled from patchworks of overlaid, fringed scarves. Dégradé collisions of color on oversized outerwear, framed by coordinated scarves, marked this collection’s sunset.